How to Climb Gerlach Peak: A Complete Guide to Slovakia’s Highest Mountain

Standing proudly at 2,655 meters, Gerlach Peak (Gerlachovský štít) is the highest mountain in Slovakia and the entire Carpathian range. It is located roughly in the center of the High Tatras, between the Batizovská Valley and the Velická Valley. The summit ridge continues to the southeast toward Kotlový štít, where it branches and forms the distinctive and dramatic Gerlachovský Cirque.

First Ascents:

  • 1834 (summer) – Johann Still, Martin Spitzkopf-Urban, Gelhof (the ascent is subject to doubt)
  • January 15, 1905 (winter) – Janusz Chmielowski, Károly Jordán, Klemens Bachleda

Climbing Gerlach is possible also in winter with UIAGM mountain guides. The mountain can not be climbed if the wind is too strong, there is too much fresh snow, which increases avalanche risk or the terrain is frozen.

Gerlach should not be underestimated. Even on the most frequented route via the Velický Couloir, three factors come into play:

Difficult navigation.
Gerlach has no clearly defined summit, so for about three quarters of the route you don’t really know where you are heading. If the weather closes in, the western face turns into a maze of identical rocks, and it’s very easy to lose your sense of direction. That’s why it’s wise to carry a GPS or something similar.

A real grind.
If you leave your car in Tatranská Polianka, be prepared to spend around 10 hours on your feet (net hiking time), unless you’re a racing machine and everything goes perfectly. And that’s with an elevation gain of roughly 1,700 metres. If you stay at Sliezsky dom for a night before the climb the ascent is then only 985 m from Sliezsky dom.

Not entirely safe sections.
You have to scramble over rocky ribs and descend steep gullies. High Tatras are very treacherous due to the fact that the rocks are not very compact, so it is not advised to put 100 percent of your weight on small holds if you are not roped.

The starting point for the ascent is Tatranská Polianka, but parking there is questionable. A few spots can be found along the road, but they are usually full. There is a parking lot above Polianka, officially reserved for TANAP members only. In the past, it was possible to get a lift in a state vehicle to Sliezsky Dom for a small tip, but this option is currently prohibited and allowed only for guests staying there. Therefore it is recommended to book accomodation in Sliezsky dom for one night before the climb, so you can save 4 hours of walking on the summit day.

Climbing Gerlach is always an adventure, combining exposed terrain, scrambling, and breathtaking High Tatras scenery. Generally recommended for first summiting and knowing the mountain from both sides is Normal route . You can also enjoy this climbing experience with your partner or friends as the guide can take maximum 3 people in summer. The most beatifull route to summit is Martinka through aery ridge which is a bit technical and mountain guide can take maximum 2 people.

If you dream of standing on the roof of Slovakia, this guide will show you how to climb Gerlach safely and legally.

Where Is Gerlach Peak and Why Is It So Special?

Gerlach Peak is located in the High Tatras National Park in northern Slovakia, close to the Polish border. Unlike many famous Alpine summits, Gerlach does not dominate the skyline with a single sharp pyramid. Instead, it rises subtly but powerfully above glacial valleys, making the ascent feel like a journey into wild mountain terrain.

Gerlach usually attracts lot of clouds which make the orientation difficult and rocky terrain is more challenging than you think mainly due to loosen rocks. Mountain guide will keep you safe and find the proper route with your level of climbing skills. The massif of Gerlach is extremely big and getting lost there alone is very likely. The second risk is that there is only one way down which is not easy to find in difficult conditions and all other routes going down are dangerous even for climbers.

What makes Gerlach unique:

  • Highest peak in Slovakia and the Carpathians
  • Challenging climb via all hiking/ climbing routes
  • Protected national park environment
  • No marked hiking trail to the summit
  • Access only with a certified mountain guide

This combination preserves Gerlach as a serious mountaineering objective, not a tourist viewpoint.

Do You Need a Mountain Guide to Climb Gerlach?

Yes — a certified mountain guide is mandatory.

According to the rules of the High Tatras National Park, Gerlach Peak can only be climbed:

  • with a UIAGM / IFMGA certified mountain guide, or
  • by registered climbers with special permits

This rule exists for safety and conservation reasons. The terrain includes:

  • exposed ridges
  • loose rock
  • steep gullies
  • sections where a fall would be fatal

A mountain guide ensures:

  • correct route choice
  • short rope protection when needed
  • risk management in changing weather
  • compliance with park regulations

Best Routes to Climb Gerlach Peak

There are several classic routes to the summit, chosen based on experience, weather, and conditions.

1. Velická Próba (The Most Popular Route)

  • Difficulty: Moderate alpine scrambling
  • Best for: First-time climbers
  • Highlights: Chimneys, ledges, dramatic exposure

This route offers a perfect balance between adventure and safety and is the most commonly used guided ascent.

2. Batizovská Próba (More Adventurous Option)

  • Difficulty: More technical
  • Best for: Fit and experienced hikers
  • Highlights: Steeper sections, wild terrain

Often used as a descent route, Batizovská Próba adds variety and excitement to the climb.

3. Technical Climbing Routes: Gipsy ferrata or Martinka

  • Difficulty: High
  • Best for: Experienced climbers
  • Includes: Roped climbing, exposed ridges

These routes are rarely used for standard ascents but are popular among alpinists.

How Difficult Is It to Climb Gerlach?

Climbing Gerlach is physically demanding but achievable for fit individuals.

You should be able to:

  • hike 6–8 hours in alpine terrain
  • scramble using hands
  • tolerate exposure and heights
  • move confidently on steep rock

No technical rock-climbing experience is required for normal guided routes, but mental readiness is just as important as physical fitness.

Best Time and Season to Climb Gerlach

Summer Season (Best Choice)

  • June to September
  • Stable conditions
  • Some snow fields can remain until end of June
  • Long daylight hours

Winter Ascents

  • Only with experienced guides
  • Requires crampons, ice axe, and winter skills
  • Much more technical and risky. Without a guide poses extremely high risk of getting lost or slipping on icy terrain. Guides know the right conditions for climbing in winter and make sure you are roped in steep sections.

Weather in the Tatras changes rapidly. Even in summer, storms, and strong winds are possible. The weather is more stable until 13:00 therefore the early start is neccessary.

What Equipment Do You Need?

Your mountain guide will often provide:

  • rope
  • helmet
  • climbing harness

You should bring:

  • hiking boots with good grip
  • weatherproof jacket and layers
  • climbing gloves and cap
  • small backpack
  • water and high-energy snacks
  • sun cream and sunglasses

Lightweight but reliable gear is essential to stay fast and efficient. Carrying a heavy backpack is not recommended.

How Long Does It Take to Climb Gerlach?

  • Total time: 6–8 hours from Sliezsky dom
  • Ascent: 3–4 hours
  • Descent: 3–4 hours

The pace depends on the route, weather, and group ability.

Safety Rules and Important Tips

  • Never attempt Gerlach without a guide. Chances of a successful summit alone in snowy winter conditions without experience is close to zero, but with significant risk of your life.
  • Start early in the morning to avoid possible storms in the afternoon.
  • Respect weather forecasts for Sliezsky dom.
  • Follow guide instructions at all times.
  • Stay on the agreed route.
  • Do not underestimate fatigue during descent.
  • Due to TANAP regulation climbing is not allowed between 16.04.-31.05.
  • From October the conditions are like in winter.

Is Climbing Gerlach Worth It?

Absolutely.

From the summit, you’ll see:

  • best views of Tatra peaks and Tatra mountains

Climbing Gerlach Peak is not about ticking a box. It is about earning the summit, step by step, through effort, focus, and awe.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can beginners climb Gerlach?
Yes, if they are fit and use a certified guide.

Is there a hiking trail to the top?
No. There is no marked tourist trail to the summit.

Is Gerlach dangerous?
It can be — without proper guidance and preparation.

Can I climb Gerlach alone?
No, unless you are a registered climber with permission.

Conquer the Roof of Slovakia

Climbing Gerlach Peak is one of the most authentic mountain adventures in Central Europe. It combines wild nature, alpine exposure, and deep respect for the mountains.

If you seek a climb that feels earned and unforgettable, Gerlach is waiting.